![]() ![]() Test fitting to confirm final seat placement so I can finish my seat brackets, pedals installed: No photos taken but took the rear suspension apart, cleaned and reinstalled most of it, the rest to go back in tomorrow, changed to the new rear springs at the same time. That tells me that, given good traction, and gearing that puts you where you want to be at the finish line, a cars ET is basically set by its horsepower and weight.So Jeremy and I spent all night working on the car tonight and it was a night of both great triumph and epic defeat. I've noticed that there can be a LOT of different gearing combos, in similarly built cars, that basically run the same ETs. SS and class racer guys can spend the money to fine tune their combo to a perfect state, but most of us are just making changes as money allows, to make our car better, or more fun, and are far from our 'ideal' set-up. For $2000 less than new, I can live with the 'compromise' for now.lol That $2000 can buy me a lot of gear changes. Of course if he were buying new, he can spec whatever 1st gear he wants. It may not be the ideal gear for JB either, but it will make a big difference, and he can always change his rear ratio as time and money allows. ![]() The Jerico may have masked some of my traction issues, and it may not be ideal for my current combo, but the car gets off the line without issue now. Sure, you're shifting into 2nd quick, but once the car is moving, it's a non-issue. If anything, it saves a lot of clutch life during street use. It also made taking off at stop lights much easier, so I don't believe that a 14.4 is "way too deep for any street use". That's a 13.7 1st ratio (Jared, I misstated my 1st gear ratio in your 1/4 mile post). With the Jerico change, I picked up 4 mph and went from a best of 12.28 to 11.51 on my first full 1/4 mile pass. I already had the 4.30 gears in the car and was still having a terrible time with traction with the 2.78 toploader. When I bought my used Jerico, it already had the 3.19 gear, and it was used in a FE Fairlane drag car. I don’t have enough passes on the car to really speak to traction problems so don’t know if a low first like 3.17, ( G Force), or 3.19, ( Jerico), will help or hurt me. Rory, I might have a chance to grab a G Force with a 2.92 first. Maybe the Liberty face plated third gear is off center, just don’t know. I don’t feel like I can keep trying it at track, even with clutch pressure reduced. No problems with it staying in third on the street but street speeds are not the same as the speed at track plus tire spin occurs on street tires. Third gear shifter stop was a little tight, don’t know if that is responsible for trans not staying in third. I considered draining oil and would have if interlock test failed. I could not move arms in either test which tells me interlock pin is intact. Jared, I did a test where I put the trans in second via the shifter and then went under car and attempted to move third or fourth gear and switched the test with putting trans in third via shifter and attempted to move first or second via the shifter arms. Both my Jericos, as well as my G Force, use the popular 1 3/16"x18 MoPar Hemi spline input shafts, with Ford length and pilot sizes.Since I did not have a big spline Toploader clutch fork, it made sense to use the MoPar spline, as it allowed me to use a small input fork and throwout bearing, as well as free up a little room inside the bellhousing. My first Jerico came with 2.93 low gear, switching to 3.19 helped the launch, and the wider ratio drops never hurt the performance anywhere down the track.But if traction is an issue, a lower first will just make matters worse. My 85 Mustang ran the same trans and axle ratios, with 9" wide slicks, but with a weaker small block, but both cars left well, best of 1.29 60 foot in the Fairmont, 1.34 in the Mustang. My Fairmont normally runs 13" wide slicks, always dropping the clutch at 6000 RPM or higher. ![]() ![]() On both my Jericos, as well as the G Force, I used 3.19 low gears, along with 4.88 and 5.13 rear axle ratios. As for gearing, if you have the traction, more gear should always get the car moving quicker. That said, I have never had any case issues with either of my top & bottom DR4 cases, other than the time broken parts got caught between the main and cluster gears, but that is hardly regular stress load. Supposedly the round bottom Jerico case (top cover only) is stronger than the top & bottom cover versions, which does made sense, since the bottom is solid. ![]()
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